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Back in the water

Posted on December 15, 2013 by ScottMacDDecember 19, 2013

Eight weeks after leaving Big Smile at Washburns Boatyard in Solomons, MD we are back on board and heading south to Florida. We are spending two nights at Fernandina Harbor Marina in Fernandina Beach FL. Tomorrow we push off for our last overnite and will arrive Fort Pierce on Tuesday.

Our experience with Washburns Boatyard could not have been better. The main item of work we contracted to have done was performing an electronics install for the other half of the system replaced (by others) last year. We opted to install a Garmin suite to complement the Furuno suite. This provides a redundancy in both gps and radar as both can operate independently. It does require the operator ie Cath and I, to learn two systems but the extra work is worth the effort and we are comforted by the added peace of mind. Several other items got attended to including soda blasting the bottom to bare fiberglass. The bottom was not too rough but did require some fairing prior to the epoxy barrier coats and bottom paint. Stabilizer work included complete removal, tear down and cylinder replacement. According to their mechanic they were in rough shape and needed this overhaul. Numerous smaller items were found and taken care of while Big Smile was on the hard. A quick sea trail on Monday with Eric Skow (owner) and mechanic Ricky showed all in good order. On Tuesday December 3rd we pushed off.

Big Smile ready for launching

Big Smile ready for launching

The trip down from Solomons MD started off very cold with temps dipping into the 30’s a few nights. Our route included the intracoastal through Virginia and North Carolina with various stops along the way. Unlike our trip north we are avoiding the Dismal Swamp canal and instead making a left turn near Norfolk to take the Albemarle and Chesapeake canal. Our schedule had several float days in case of bad weather and it also requires three offshore, overnite passages.

The ICW winds through Camp Lejuene and a favorite anchorage is Mile Hammock Bay where Marines practice amphibious landings and other tactics. It is a large, safe anchorage and the kayaking is superb. Two nights were spent here as pea soup fog enveloped us the morning we were to leave. We actually attempted to leave but less than a 1/4 mile from the anchorage we ran aground. It was fortuitous however as the fog didn’t lift till about 2PM. We did float free after three hours of waiting for the tide to rise and inched our way back to the anchorage.

Stuck in the mud on the ICW

Stuck in the mud on the ICW

 

Kayaking Mile Hammock Bay

Kayaking Mile Hammock Bay

At anchorage

At anchorage

 

Our first overnite of this trip had us leaving Carolina Beach NC and running down the Cape Fear River to the Atlantic and on to Charleston. It was 36 degrees and brilliant sunshine when we woke. Cath is in charge of the anchoring no matter what the weather and had to dress as if it were Vermont on this morning.

Leaving Carolina Beach, 36 degrees at sunrise.

Leaving Carolina Beach, 36 degrees at sunrise.

 

We had a easy offshore run and pulled into Charleston Harbor at 4AM. We dropped the hook and slept till 8 before returning to our favorite Charleston marina for one night. The marina trolley took us into Charleston for dinner. The city was hopping and the restaurant was superb.

Charleston Harbor Marina

Charleston Harbor Marina

 

Our next offshore run brought us to where we are at the moment. Leaving Charleston Harbor at 10 AM would put us at the entrance to St Marys River, the southernmost point in the state of Georgia at about sunrise. From there its a quick trip to Fernandina Harbor Marina. The offshore trip down however was tough as the wind and sea turned to the east at about sunset creating a beam sea that rolled us all night. In addition while Cath was cooking dinner we realized that smoke was coming up from the lower cabin. We checked the engine room immediately but no smoke there. It appeared to be coming from the third stateroom vent. I immediately shut off the HVAC system which had been running to heat the boat and the smoke slowly stopped. We opened hatches and vented the boat for quite some time as the smell of burning wiring was not pleasant. What happened was water somehow hit a five gang terminal block that provided power to the HVAC unit in that state room. It shorted and started to melt the block and wiring. It was a bit unnerving to have smoke billow up from below when you are 8 miles offshore. I replaced the block yesterday and all is well.

We just got back from a bike ride to the beach. The town of Fernandina Beach is historic and very interesting. Lots of restaurants, shops, and restored homes. We made it to the Saturday farmers market and had a field day buying from the various vendors. We will return and spend more time, maybe this spring.

Farmers market

Farmers market

Fernandina Harbor Marina

Fernandina Harbor Marina

 

1920's Trumpy pulling into Fernandina

1926, 103′ Trumpy “Freedom” pulling into Fernandina

We will leave tomorrow at sunrise for a 31 hour offshore run to Ft Pierce. Big Smile will stay there while we fly back for the holidays next Friday. We return via car to FL after New Years and will spend the month of January in Stuart. Time for a glass of wine before dinner.

Below is a typical night view on board.

Offshore at midnight

Offshore at midnight

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Autumn on the Chesapeake

Posted on October 13, 2013 by ScottMacDOctober 19, 2013

We left Big Smile at Washburns Boat Yard this week and headed north to NJ. I had driven her down from Herrington Harbor while Cath brought the car down. It was a chilly day to motor with 15+ north winds and temps in the 50’s. Made it in less than five hours however and was greeted by the Washburn staff. She will remain at Washburns for 3-4 weeks while maintenance work is done and new Garmin electronics are installed.

Our last two weeks at Herrington Harbor were busy. The weather all summer was great and these two weeks were no exception with warm days and no rain. We managed to fit in two boat shows and a Navy-Air Force football game with guests in between. We spent a full day at the Trawlerfest show in Baltimore where we saw the boat about which a book was written that led to the naming of Big Smile. The show was fun but there were not many land exhibitors.

A book about this boat provided the basis for the name of "Big Smile"

A book about this boat provided the basis for the name of “Big Smile”

Andrew and Nicole visited for a quick weekend and on Sunday we took the opportunity to try out the best brunch stop in Annapolis. Miss Shirley’s, which we found on Tripadvisor, was packed. After a 15 minute wait the four of us sat and ate the most superb and creative brunch imaginable. Even their version of a Bloody Mary, called the “Spicy Shirley”, was edible and delicious. Afterwards we walked downtown Annapolis.

Cath and Nicole on Main St

Cath and Nicole on Main St

Mid week we were joined by our friends Kobus and Susie. We left Herrington and motored to St Michaels arriving at 5:30 just as the Wednesday evening races were starting. An eclectic group of boats for the open category provided great viewing.

Getting ready to race on the Miles River.

Getting ready to race on the Miles River.

Bagpiper at start of race.

Bagpiper at start of race.

Perfect sunset.

Perfect sunset.

After cocktails topside we lowered the dink and headed in for dinner. St Michaels caters to boaters and has a large dinghy dock and many restaurants.

Lowering the dink

Lowering the dink

Awoke to another perfect Chesapeake day and after coffee it was back into town for a stroll on the main street. Weighed anchor mid afternoon and 3.5 hours later we pulled back into Herrington Harbor.

Morning coffee in a perfect setting

Morning coffee in a perfect setting

Entering Herrington Harbor

Entering Herrington Harbor

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Friday had the four of us in Annapolis for the powerboat show. Cath and I spent the entire day walking the show while our friends had to leave for NJ.

Saturday it was back to Annapolis for the Navy/Air Force football game. Whether the game would be played was up in the air until two days before game day. As ludicrous as it sounds the government shutdown had forced Air Force to scramble to find a way to fly the team to Annapolis. They made it and the largest crowd to fill Navy-Marine Corps Memorial Stadium sweated in 93 degree sunshine and watched Navy dominate. It was a lot of fun.

Dad was in the Marines and we live on a boat: Go Navy

Dad was in the Marines and we live on a boat: Go Navy

Inspiring pre-game arrival

Inspiring pre-game arrival

Our last night on board at Washburns provided a gorgeous sunset.

Sunset at Washburns Boatyard

Sunset at Washburns Boatyard

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Silver Bay, Lake George

Posted on September 27, 2013 by ScottMacDSeptember 27, 2013

We are back on the Chesapeake after sixteen beautiful days at Lake George. Silver Bay is our hailing port but Big Smile will never see the thirty-two miles of clean, fresh Lake George water. Someday we might get it as close as Ticonderoga on Lake Champlain but even that would be problematic due to the height restrictions on the canal system linking the Hudson River to Champlain. Something to ponder.

I have been coming to Lake George for 56 years and know very well the vagaries of the Adirondack weather. This is especially so in the fall. However this year we lucked out and for most of our 16 days we had sunshine and no rain. On top of this we had the pleasure of having our new Vermont friends over for a weekend. And they brought their sailboat which not coincidently is moored on our bay. John and Marion took us out on their Capri 22 for a perfect sail. We had not sailed anything other than a sunfish in quite a while so it was a treat.

Marion

Marion

John flying the kite

John flying the kite

A great sail

A great sail

Although John and Marion had to leave after the weekend they graciously left their boat behind for Cath and I to enjoy. Thanks to both of you.

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The Adirondacks are known for their “high” peaks and although we are not experienced hikers we did climb Black Mountain on a perfect, clear day. It is a three-hour hike up but once at the top the views of the lake are magnificent. There is an old fire tower at the top but it was shut down in the mid 70’s and can no longer be climbed.

Top of Black Mountain

Top of Black Mountain

View to the North

View to the North

The following weekend my cousin Nance and husband Rob joined us. John also drove over from Vermont and the five of us got in another good sail.

It was a good night

It was a good night

John's at the helm

John’s at the helm

Our lake trip ended with the ritual of boat hauling and storage. I elected to tow the jet skis to the launch area on a 40 degree morning. But that’s the Adirondacks.

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Washington DC to Lake George

Posted on September 13, 2013 by ScottMacDSeptember 13, 2013

Left the Capital Yacht Club early to make the long day trip to Breton Bay. Pulling into this anchorage I discovered a major discrepancy between two of my navigation programs. The photo below shows the tide and current for Breton Bay on August 20th. However the info is completely contradictory. This is something I had seen before and need to contact the offending software company in the near future.

Breton Bay tide and current. Huh?

Breton Bay tide and current. Huh?

One night at this now familiar anchorage and than a 20 mile run to Smith Creek. This would be our last stop on the Potomac before heading north to Solomons, MD. Smith Creek is a quiet and beautiful anchorage with easy kayaking and beautiful sunsets. I had read that every morning a long time resident on an adjoining creek plays the Star Spangled Banner over loudspeakers. Well sure enough at 8AM we could clearly hear the broadcast from the next creek.

Sunset on Smith creek

Sunset on Smith creek

From Smith Creek it was on to Solomons, MD. This town, located off the lower Patuxent River, is a boaters paradise. Marinas abound and so do plenty of anchorages. We elected to stay several days at Solomons Harbor Marina, part of a Holiday Inn. This fall we are scheduling some maintenance work at Washburn’s Boatyard in Solomons but an immediate need arose and we contacted Eric, the owner of Washburn’s. He was kind enough to make a house call to review the battery situation on our genset. Problem was that the 18 month old AGM’s were dead and I had to jump off the main engine each time I wanted to start the genset. Eric confirmed the dead batteries so we rented a car and headed for Annapolis and the large “discount” battery store. They are big and heavy but of all the batteries on board these are the easiest to access. Why they died a premature death is something Washburn will need to figure out in October.

Oxford, MD

Solomons, MD

Across the Patuxent from Solomons is Naval Air Station Patuxent River. Situated on over 14,000 acres it is home to NAVAIR: “Naval Air Systems Command”. Navy flights and training are endless and the variety of aircraft overhead is impressive.

F/A 18 and V-22 Osprey cross paths

F/A 18 and V-22 Osprey cross paths

We crossed the Chesapeake and headed up the Eastern shore looking for a Creek we anchored on nearly thirty years ago. We found it off the Choptank River. La Trappe Creek and its smaller ancillary creeks has had some large homes built along its edges but the beauty and stillness remains. So do the crabs and we finally had some success.

Caught and cooked

Caught and cooked

And eaten

And eaten

Not far from La Trappe Creek and just up the Tred Avon River lies the historic town of Oxford, MD. Our plans were loose and we ended up staying five days anchored in Goldsborough Creek, two miles east of town. It was Labor Day weekend but for most of the time we had the creek to ourselves.

Like La Trappe Creek we had not been to Oxford in nearly 30 years. Located right on the edge of town is the Robert Morris Inn. Built in about 1710 the Inn was once the home of Robert Morris, the father of the financier of the American Revolution. It is currently an Inn and restaurant and we picked a perfect Friday evening to eat outdoors. Being Friday night it was also race night at the Oxford Yacht Club. We were able to dinghy right up to the start of the race and then watch the finish from our table. Not bad.

Startin line

Starting line

Robert Morris Inn

Robert Morris Inn

Andrew and Nicole had asked if they could join us for a night and so they drove down from DC Saturday and we picked them up at the Oxford dinghy dock. Another perfect weather day.

Touring the Tred Avon

Touring the Tred Avon

Goldsborough Creek

Goldsborough Creek

We learned awhile back that Nicole likes to eat. Here she brought a sandwich for Cath.

Our type of deli

Our type of deli

Big Smile is now docked at Herrington Harbor South on the western shore of Maryland. Andrew picked us up early and dropped us at Reagan National. From there it was on to Boston and Boston to Rutland via our now favorite airline, Cape Air. I am sitting in the lobby of the Silver Bay Inn on Lake George. I’ll post some LG photos in a few days.

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Washington DC

Posted on August 28, 2013 by ScottMacDSeptember 5, 2013

Well we just spent a fabulous twelve days in DC. Since it was our first Potomac adventure we enjoyed the long, 95 mile run from the mouth of the river and ending at the Capital Yacht Club. The yacht club is a very funky marina just a short walk from the national mall. It’s situated on the “Washington Channel”, a gritty waterfront area with two other marinas and a spectacular seafood market. The area is in need of a major facelift and according to the folks at CYC one is in the works. When it will start is another matter with no firm answer. We loved the area and would return often if not for the 95 mile Potomac run. Andrew met us the first night as he had never seen Big Smile despite us owning it for a year and a half.

Andrew's first visit to Big Smile

Andrew’s first visit to Big Smile

Our DC visit was perfect. The weather cooperated fully with no rain and cooler, drier conditions not typical of DC in August. The first weekend of our visit we borrowed Andrew’s car and drove to VT for the wedding of our Lake George neighbors daughter. It was held in Shelburne VT overlooking Lake Champlain. The brides were gorgeous as was the weather.

Katie and Tracy's wedding

Katie and Tracy’s wedding

After an all day drive back from VT we spent the balance of the week visiting museums and walking the mall. It had been years since we spent any time in DC and it all seemed new. The first museum we visited did not exist when I last visited. The Marine Corps museum is actually located in Quantico VA. We figured a couple hour visit then back to DC. We ended up getting shown the door when the place locked up at 5PM. We had spent 5 hours and not completed it. If you are into history this is a must visit.

USMC Museum

USMC Museum

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There are of course many museums to see and most are free. We visited the Smithsonian’s, Air & Space, American History and Natural History Museums. We also got to see the US Holocaust Museum, the US National Arboretum and the Newseum.

Smithsonian Institution Building "The Castle"

Smithsonian Institution Building “The Castle”

Jefferson Memorial

Jefferson Memorial

The White House

The White House

Julia Childs kitchen

Julia Childs kitchen

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One building really made an impression and that was the Library of Congress. A stunning architectural masterpiece.

Library of Congress

Library of Congress

A special person in our life currently lives in Silver Spring, MD. We drove up to see Joycelyn and had a delicious dinner. What else would you expect. She is the best. It was fun to see her in her new house.

Cath and Joyclyn

Cath and Joycelyn

Andrew took two days off from work and joined us onboard. We carry folding bikes and Andrew has a superb road and mountain bike so we spent a day cycling to Alexandria VA. The historic area contains incredible examples of early American architecture including the narrowest house I had ever seen.

Look at the width of this house

Look at the width of this house

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Alexandria Virginia

Alexandria Virginia

Mitch and Tara also joined for the weekend and on Saturday morning we headed 30 miles south to anchor off a bar/restaurant and give them the experience of cruising. On the way down the Potomac we dropped the hook off Mt Vernon and spent 3 hours touring the grounds and Washington’s home. There is also a very good museum on site.

Mitch and Tara in front of Mt Vernon

Mitch and Tara in front of Mt Vernon

Big Smile anchored off Mt Vernon

Big Smile anchored off Mt Vernon

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I think he likes it

I think he likes it

Between the kids and the museums we also managed to kayak, buy fish, take long walks and really enjoy Washington. And Nicole, back from a vacation in Italy joined us for dinner onboard.

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Morehead City to Washington DC

Posted on August 25, 2013 by ScottMacDAugust 25, 2013

The fourteen day trip from Morehead City to DC was an interesting assortment of long canals and quiet, sometimes desolate rivers. That is of course until you exit the Dismal Swamp Canal and almost immediately come upon the largest Naval Base in the world ie “Naval Station Norfolk”.

Prior to reaching Portsmouth and Norfolk we were entertained and challenged by the narrow and sometimes shallow canals that help the mariner avoid the offshore work around Cape Hatteras and the Outer Banks. The first canal just north of Morehead City was Adams Creek. From here you exit into the Neuse River. The next two nights we spent on the hook, first at Bonner Bay and then on the deserted Alligator River. The Alligator River/Pungo River Canal was a relaxing and easy transit. We did not pass a single boat in the entire canal.

Pungo River Canal

Pungo River Canal

Anchoring on Alligator River

Anchoring on Alligator River

Our next stop was Elizabeth City, the last town before the Dismal Swamp. Unfortunately we pulled in on a Sunday. As with much of North Carolina Sunday is a day to roll up the sidewalk and go to church. The city does provide free docking along the waterfront. There is no electric or water but you can’t beat the location.

Elizabeth City

Elizabeth City

From Albemarle Sound there are two ways to reach Norfolk. The eastern route is the Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal. The western route is the Dismal Swamp Canal. The former is the route of choice for deeper draft vessels. The Dismal Swamp has a project depth of 6′. We draw 5-9 so its a close call. We chose the Dismal Swamp as we wanted to do it at least once. Well it was a day and a half of cringing as Big Smile bounced and bumped off of countless logs, branches and the bottom. The weather was perfect however and not a single boat passed us along the way. The canal is extremely narrow and is cut through a Cypress Swamp. It was opened in 1805 and is the oldest continually operating canal in the US. We did our first lock in Big Smile. Approximately half way through there is a visitor/welcome center. It welcomes boats and cars alike. The visitors center has a book exchange and a friendly and helpful staff. There is a nature trail through the swamp and a bike trail that follows the canal for miles. We were the only boat but plenty of cars pulled in.

South Mills Lock

South Mills Lock

Our first lock in Big Smile

Our first lock in Big Smile

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We left the center in the early morning and bounced for another three hours before reaching the Deep Creek Lock. Again no boats and gorgeous weather. It was a fun trip but one we will not do again due to the depth of the canal. I don’t think any damage was done as our huge skeg took the brunt of the logs and deflected them to the side.

Leaving North Carolina

Leaving North Carolina

Dismal Swamp in Virginia

Dismal Swamp in Virginia

Approaching Deep Creek Lock

Approaching Deep Creek Lock

Not long after exiting Deep Creek Lock the surroundings take on a different look. The southern branch brings you into the heart of Norfolk and Portsmouth. Our destination was Ocean Marine, a marina in downtown Portsmouth. It was a far cry from the Dismal Swamp tie up. Our view included the Iwo Jima at the drydock.

Iwo Jima in drydock

Iwo Jima in drydock

Portsmouth turned out to be a wonderful three day stop. In addition to easy provisioning by bicycle Portsmouth has a beautiful historic district and very nice waterfront. It also has a dinner theater, “Commodore Theatre” which we took in. It is a restored 1945 Art Deco motion picture theater with dining. There are no seats, only tables and chairs. You arrive at 6PM and order your dinner by the phone at the table. It is served and you eat before the movie starts at 7. Desert, if ordered is delivered half way through the movie. A really fun experience and an awesome projection/sound system.

Leaving Portsmouth you pass only a couple of hundred yards from an incredible display of Navy armament. We were asked to keep to port in the channel by a Navy destroyer approaching its berth. We swung wide.

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After two nights on the hook off Mobjack Bay we crossed the Chesapeake on a 6 hour trip to Cape Charles VA. Cape Charles is an old railroad town. For decades it was the Delmarva Peninsula rail port and connection point to Norfolk. The Chesapeake Bay Bridge tunnel’s opening in 1964 hastened the demise of Cape Charles. In the last decade development has taken place and the historic nature of the town is being realized. We spent two nights at the Kings Creek Marina and Resort. It was beautiful and the town was charming. We were even treated to a free concert in the public park called “Central Park” by the Navy’s jazz band. Lawn seating and a perfect night.

Waterman off Mobjack Bay

Waterman off Mobjack Bay

Kings Creek Marina

Kings Creek Marina

Crossing back to the western shore we spent three nights on the hook at three different locations as we made our way to DC. All spots were nice with Little Bay providing the nicest beach we had seen on the Chesapeake. On the 8th we left Fairview Beach and pulled into the Capital Yacht Club at 3PM. The Potomac is a long 95 mile run from the mouth to DC. Not something you do for an overnite. However we had planned 12 days at CYC and were looking forward to it.

Beach at Little Bay

Beach at Little Bay

Mount Vernon

Mount Vernon

Approaching the Capital Yacht Club

Approaching the Capital Yacht Club

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Charleston to Morehead City

Posted on July 27, 2013 by ScottMacDJuly 28, 2013

After two and a half great weeks at Lake George we are back on board and slowly heading north to Washington DC. We expect to pull into the Capital Yacht Club on August 8 and will spend 10 days there in a slip.

Before leaving Charleston I took time to visit Fort Sumter which is located smack in the middle of the Charleston Harbor. On April 12, 1861 Confederate artillery opened fire on the fort. Fort Sumter surrendered 34 hours later. The Civil War had started. There is very little left of the original fort but the museum and overall experience is worth the effort.

Original Fort Sumter Flag

Original Fort Sumter Flag

Fort Sumter

Fort Sumter

Left Charleston Harbor Marina around 9AM on July 18 and headed down the Cooper River. Picked up the ICW south of Charleston and turned north. Six hours later after an uneventful cruise thru the South Carolina low country we dropped anchor in Minim Creek.

Sunset on Minim Creek

Sunset on Minim Creek

Minim Creek

Minim Creek

Weighed Anchor and continued north for a lunch stop at Georgetown SC. There are two town docks that provide free daytime tie ups and we were able to find a completely free one to side tie. Georgetown is an old village near the mouth of the Waccamaw River. They revived and rebuilt their waterfront and now it’s a destination by both car and boat. Many restaurants line the shore and a youth sailing school operates off the waterfront. We met a retired wife of an International Paper Executive and she recommended the “Big Tuna” raw bar for lunch. Perfect…. Also found Kudzu Bakery which sold frozen soups, shrimp and grits and many other southern delights.

Georgetown, SC

Georgetown, SC

Georgetown Sailing School

Georgetown Sailing School

Pulled out of Georgetown and continued up the Waccamaw River. Like much of the coastal water in South Carolina the Waccamaw River is a golden brown or tea color. This is due to tannins and other pigments that have leached out of vegetation growing in the extensive wetlands adjoining the river. The Intracoastal Waterway joins the Waccamaw near Bucksport and shares the river channel for over 25 miles to Winyah Bay and Georgetown. Despite the uninviting color of the water we loved the Waccamaw River. It was very peaceful and provided several hours of beautiful scenery. We spent two nights off the Waccamaw on Prince Creek. Prince Creek is roughly two miles of winding, narrow, tree lined waterway. it is deep along its length. We anchored in the center of the creek in 20 feet of water. The slow flow of the river held us in the middle. It was a perfect creek for kayaking. We saw an alligator for the first time. It was resting in the water on the edge of the creek. Its eyes and head barely above the waterline. As we approached it slowly lowered and disappeared. We also heard an alligator attack and kill a meal no more than 100 feet from our anchorage.

Prince Creek

Prince Creek

Prince Creek

Prince Creek

Anchored on Prince Creek

Anchored on Prince Creek

On to Myrtle Beach. Five miles north of Prince Creek we left the Waccamaw and spent the next several hours slogging thru the ICW and along some ugly built up waterway behind Myrtle Beach. It was essentially a ditch cut and blasted to create this portion of the ICW. Homes and developments lined the shores. Spent two nights at the Myrtle Beach Yacht Club. Great place with nice pool. Rented a car for a day to explore Myrtle Beach.

Along the ICW

Along the ICW

Myrtle Beach

Myrtle Beach

Cath's friend at Myrtle Beach YC

Cath’s friend at Myrtle Beach YC

Mytle Beach to Carolina Beach was a long seven hour ride but was much more scenic. After a few hours of ICW you exit the canal portion and enter the Cape Fear River. There was an outgoing tide confronting an East wind creating short steep seas for five of the nine miles you are on the River.

Driving up the Cape Fear River

Driving up the Cape Fear River

Carolina to Mile Hammock Bay was also an interesting and scenic cruise. Mile Hammock and the property around it is owned by the Federal Government and controlled by the Marine Corps. Camp Lejeune covers 246 square miles and has 14 miles of beaches. Construction of the camp started in 1941 and it has served the USMC since then as a major amphibious assault training facility. It houses expeditionary forces and special ops. While we were anchored for the night amphibious training was taking place.

USMC training at Mile Hammock Bay

USMC training at Mile Hammock Bay

It was an easy 36 miles from Mile Hammock to Morehead City. Morehead is industrial and a bit gritty but the Yacht Basin was very nice. Just don’t look to the north as a large Potash plant obscures the view. A major sport fishing tournament was about to happen over the weekend and many sport fish were docked around us.

Unusual sailing rig

Unusual sailing rig

Sport Fish at Morehead City Yacht Basin

Sport Fish at Morehead City Yacht Basin

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Charleston

Posted on June 26, 2013 by ScottMacDJune 26, 2013

Made it to Charleston Harbor Resort & Marina after a wonderful two day cruise up the ICW from Savannah. It was another winding, scenic ride and the long docks of the South Carolina low country became more plentiful as we approached Charleston.

This boat spent time on the bottom

This boat spent time on the bottom

Tug on the ICW

Tug on the ICW

The last three miles of the approach to Charleston heading north includes a passage thru Elliot Cut and Wappoo Creek. The cut has 5 knot currents and the Creek has a bascule bridge with a 33′ clearance. Our air draft is 31′. We hit the cut at the turn of the tide and cruised under the bridge with a couple of feet to spare. On the other side is the Ashley River which provides the eastern border of Charleston.

The "Black Knight" at Charleston Municipal Marina

MV “Black Knight” at Charleston Municipal Marina

Our marina is located on the Cooper River, the western border of Charleston. The marina is actually situated at Patriots Point in Mt Pleasant on Hog Island. The Cooper River is the entrance to the Port of Charleston. Countless container ships and freighters transit the river each week only a few hundred yards off our slip.

From the top of our flybridge

From the top of our flybridge

South Carolina is an unabashedly “Red” state and Patriots Point is home to the WWII era aircraft carrier “Yorktown”, the WWII Destroyer “USS Laffey”, and the sub “Clamagore”. We spent an afternoon touring the ships and the Medal of Honor museum on the Yorktown. Cath could live in this state and feel right at home.

Yorktown from our stern

Yorktown from our stern

The history of Charleston dates to 1670 when English settlers came to establish Charles Town after King Charles II granted the Carolina territory to eight loyal friends. The city has been a major force in the evolutionary history of the United States. Charleston played an important role during the American Revolutionary. In 1776 the British tried to sieze Charleston but were defeated by troops of William Moultrie. Four years later the British would return and the Siege of Charleston was the greatest American defeat of the war.

After the war Charleston prospered under a plantation dominated economy. The principal crops were at first indigo, then rice and cotton. The slave trade flourished and by the 1820’s the population was over 20,000 with a black majority. We visited Boone Hall Plantation. The plantation was founded in 1681 by Major John Boone. It is still a working plantation and has been open to the public since 1956. It is a must see for those visiting Charleston. We spent five hours touring the site and our visit ended with a presentation of “Exploring the Gullah Culture”. The entrance to the planation known as the Avenue of the Oaks is breathtaking.

Avenue of the Oaks

Avenue of the Oaks

One of the original slave quarters

One of the original slave quarters

Slave quarters lining the Avenue of the Oaks

Slave quarters lining the Avenue of the Oaks

Another major war that had roots in Charleston was the Civil War. As I write this I am looking out my pilot house window at Fort Sumter. Hostilities began on April 12, 1861 when Confederate forces fired upon the fort. From that date until April 9, 1865 when General Robert E Lee surrendered at Appomattox Court House over 600,000 individuals lost their lives. In total deaths the Civil War was the deadliest in US history. Charleston of course played a major role and saw much destruction from shelling.

The city itself has some of the most beautiful old homes I have ever seen. A walking tour and carriage ride are two great ways to see the neighborhoods. Many homes date to the 1700’s but due to the many wars, fires and natural disasters that have befallen Charleston each block is unique and may span over 100 years of architectural style.

On our carriage ride tour

On our carriage ride tour

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In addition to the history the food of Charleston is superb. Tripadvisor lists nearly 600 places to eat. We picked a couple of them and the tuna appetizer below is just a sample of what you can get.

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A drink at the Oyster Bar

A drink at the Oyster Bar

We are at the Charleston airport now waiting for our three legged trip to Rutland VT. From there we drive to Lake George for two weeks where both of our kids will join us.

Posted in Uncategorized

Savannah

Posted on June 17, 2013 by ScottMacDJune 17, 2013

Arrived on Wednesday June 12 in blazing heat. 103 degrees to be exact and 100 percent humidity. Fortunately that lasted only two days and we had perfect weather for two days to explore the historic city of Savannah.

On Thursday my grade school buddy “Chip” drove over from Athens GA where he is a professor at the Univ of Georgia. Because of the heat we did our exploring with his car and since he knew the area we were able to see Tybee Island and some historic areas outside of Savannah. Chip spent the night on board and dropped us downtown early Friday so that Cath and I could get a full day exploring.

Dinghy ride in Savannah

Dinghy ride in Savannah

Beautiful live Oaks and homes in the town of "Isle of Hope"

Beautiful live Oaks and homes in the town of “Isle of Hope”

We started with an all day trolley bus pass which we have found over the years to be a great way to see and learn. We hopped on and off all day and toured several historic homes. Each trolley driver narrated in his/her own unique way and each had different facts and stories to tell along the way. “Hollywood” was our favorite driver and he kept the trolley in stitches.

Mercer Williams House Museum

Mercer Williams House Museum

Forsyth Fountain in Forsyth Park

Forsyth Fountain in Forsyth Park

Savannah’s recorded history begins in 1733. That’s the year General James Oglethorpe and the 120 passengers of the ship “Anne” landed on a bluff along the Savannah River in February. Oglethorpe named the 13th and final American colony “Georgia” after England’s King George II. Savannah became its first city.

Scale model of the ship "Anne"

Scale model of the ship “Anne”

The plan was to offer a new start for England’s working poor and to strengthen the colonies by increasing trade. The colony of Georgia was also chartered as a buffer zone for South Carolina, protecting it from the advance of the Spanish in Florida.

Savannah is known as America’s first planned city. Oglethorpe laid the city out in a series of grids that allowed for wide open streets intertwined with shady public squares and parks that served as town meeting places and centers of business. Savannah had 24 original squares; 22 squares are still in existence today.

Savannah is an easy city to tour. Its flat and easy to walk. There are many museums and original homes to tour and all of the remaining 22 squares are unique. The waterfront is steep and is home to the original Cotton Exchange. In addition to the history eating is a favorite pastime and we managed to indulge along the way.

It is Monday morning and we are anchored on the Coosaw River. We are on our way to Charleston and expect to arrive midday Wednesday.

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Finally On Board

Posted on June 11, 2013 by ScottMacDJune 11, 2013

We left New Jersey after a hectic and unusual month of May. Having parked Big Smile at Morningstar Marina and driven home events took control of the month of May. We were coming home to empty our house and ready everything for a May 31 closing. However my mother passed away on May 2. A funeral and subsequent burial at Lake George had to be planned and now I had her estate issues to deal with in addition to her condo. Her death was not expected although her health had been deteriorating for several months. Years of smoking finally took its toll.

After the funeral we got busy emptying a house. Cath had saved more kids items than I had remembered. The process was stressful. Furniture was moved to various places with one moving truck making three stops in Pennsylvania. Some stuff moved to Vermont, some to Lake George and the rest was piled in my mothers condo to be dealt with at a later date. The closing was postponed a week by the buyers which was good news for us. We flew down to Brunswick GA from Rutland on Wednesday June 5, the day before Tropical Storm Andrea blew through. The storm fortunately was a non-event at the marina. The closing took place on June 7 and our money was wired. We were finally out of NJ and on board.

Cape Air- Rutland to Boston

Cape Air- Rutland to Boston

We sit anchored now on Walburg Creek on the west side of St Catherines Island. Two days ago we left St Simons for our trip north. The intracoastal throughout Georgia is a meandering series of rivers, creeks, bays and sounds. Its serpentine course almost doubles the total mileage traveled in a day. This one trip covered 61 miles of travel but was only 35 miles as the crow flies. Its scenic and shallow at low tide keeping the helmsman on his toes.

Tight turns on Georgia ICW

Tight turns on Georgia ICW

St Catherines Island is one of Georgia’s coastal Sea Islands. It is owned by a foundation and is not open to the public. From 1943 to 1968 the Island was owned by the co-founder of “Life Savers” candy. The beaches are beautiful and have a Jurassic Park look to them.

St Catherines Island

St Catherines Island


St Catherines Island Beach

St Catherines Island Beach


Caught a baby shark

Caught a baby shark

Posted in Uncategorized

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