MV Big Smile

We finished our month at Sunset Bay and are heading back north. In fact we currently sit in our room at the Best Western in Santee, SC waiting for the start of the Super Bowl. New Jersey is our next stop for a couple of days then on to Vermont for a month of skiing.

But it’s Stuart FL that this entry is about and it was a great, albeit quick month. It also was cooler than last year with temps in the 60′s many days and dipping into the high 30′s several nights. We also had plenty of rain including one deluge that dropped over 10 inches in less than a day. We did get the good weather often enough and thoroughly enjoyed the month.

Most people would not think of Florida as a hot bed of good and entertaining theater activity. Stuart has a renovated historic theater and just north of us is the Sunrise Theater in Fort Pierce. Early in the month we visited the Sunrise Theater and had the pleasure of seeing Garrison Keillor. We knew he was a great story-teller but had no idea what a live show would present. For over two hours he talked about life in Minnesota comparing it often (tongue in cheek)  to life in Florida. He talked non-stop, without any notes, and without ever taking a sip of water. A packed house had a very enjoyable evening.

The following Wednesday we got together with our long time college friends Sandy and Rick and another couple for dinner and a show at the Lyric Theater in Stuart. This time it was an Irish band, Gaelic Storm, whose high-octane lead singer and accompanying musicians got the theater on its feet. Both theaters offer a varied menu of shows and the Lyric is just a five minute walk from our boat.

Gaelic Storm at the Lyric Theater

We met a couple down the dock who told us how good the Ft Pierce farmers market was. We were surprised to hear that as we have spent quite a lot of time in Ft Pierce tied up at Harbor Isle. We had never been to the Saturday market and drove up to see it. Well it was huge, crowded and full of vendors of all styles and qualities. As bread lovers we look for vendors selling fresh specialty breads. Importico’s filled that wish. Their Kalamata Olive and Rosemary, and Asiago Cheese Bread was superb. As good as the bakeries we know at the farmers market in Dorset VT and Dogwood Bread in Wadhams NY.

We also found a vendor who is a painter. Lisa P. Young is based in Stuart but exhibits every Saturday at the farmers market. We had been looking for some art to liven the walls of Big Smile and thought we found a piece or two. We asked if we could meet with her at her studio in Stuart, which we did, and ended up purchasing one from her studio. We also commissioned her to paint another which was actually a copy of one should had done but that was too big for our space. She agreed and two weeks later Lisa and her husband Bob delivered “Tropical Diva”. A perfect compliment to the one we purchased from her studio.

Tropical Diva

Ft Pierce farmers market

We really like getting together with cousins and January didn’t disappoint. My cousin Deb and her husband Mark visited and spent a Saturday night with us. Coincidently Sandy and Rick and Ricks brother Rob came to Sunset Bay by boat and joined us for beer and wine on the bow. Later that evening we walked to town for dinner and ended up closing the bar at Sailors Retreat, the restaurant attached to our marina. It was fun to have Deb and Mark on board as we don’t get to see them very often.

On the bow at Sunset Bay

Cath, me and Deb

Sunset Bay is named that for a reason. The beautiful sunsets attract mariners from all over and provide gorgeous views and lively crowds

College roomies on the bow

They call it Sunset Bay for a reason

January was a fun month and it was tough to leave. It’s halftime now and Seattle is leading 22-0. Peyton Manning is on his way to another super bowl loss. We don’t have a horse in this race but really enjoyed the National Anthem sung by Renee Fleming. She nailed it.

Time to upload this post. A few more views of our January home and Cath in her new immersion suit.

Sunset Bay Marina

Early morning fog

Cath in her new immersion suit

We are now securely tied up at Harbor Isle Marina in Fort Pierce after a beautiful, twenty-eight hour run down the coast from Fernandina Beach. The weather was perfect, with north winds and three foot rollers on the stern. This combined to get us here three hours earlier than anticipated. It also got a lot warmer and by the time we motored into the Ft Pierce channel it was shorts and T-shirt weather. The entire trip took exactly two weeks with nearly 500 miles of it offshore.

Sunset over Cape Canaveral

Moonrise over the Atlantic

Cath keeping watch?

A beautiful night

Sunrise

We fly back tomorrow for a couple of weeks in the snow. While we had some cold weather coming down we did not see a single snowflake. Our place in Vermont however received about 20″ this week so it will be a white Christmas.

We left Big Smile at Washburns Boat Yard this week and headed north to NJ. I had driven her down from Herrington Harbor while Cath brought the car down. It was a chilly day to motor with 15+ north winds and temps in the 50′s. Made it in less than five hours however and was greeted by the Washburn staff. She will remain at Washburns for 3-4 weeks while maintenance work is done and new Garmin electronics are installed.

Our last two weeks at Herrington Harbor were busy. The weather all summer was great and these two weeks were no exception with warm days and no rain. We managed to fit in two boat shows and a Navy-Air Force football game with guests in between. We spent a full day at the Trawlerfest show in Baltimore where we saw the boat about which a book was written that led to the naming of Big Smile. The show was fun but there were not many land exhibitors.

A book about this boat provided the basis for the name of “Big Smile”

Andrew and Nicole visited for a quick weekend and on Sunday we took the opportunity to try out the best brunch stop in Annapolis. Miss Shirley’s, which we found on Tripadvisor, was packed. After a 15 minute wait the four of us sat and ate the most superb and creative brunch imaginable. Even their version of a Bloody Mary, called the “Spicy Shirley”, was edible and delicious. Afterwards we walked downtown Annapolis.

Cath and Nicole on Main St

Mid week we were joined by our friends Kobus and Susie. We left Herrington and motored to St Michaels arriving at 5:30 just as the Wednesday evening races were starting. An eclectic group of boats for the open category provided great viewing.

Getting ready to race on the Miles River.

Bagpiper at start of race.

Perfect sunset.

After cocktails topside we lowered the dink and headed in for dinner. St Michaels caters to boaters and has a large dinghy dock and many restaurants.

Lowering the dink

Awoke to another perfect Chesapeake day and after coffee it was back into town for a stroll on the main street. Weighed anchor mid afternoon and 3.5 hours later we pulled back into Herrington Harbor.

Morning coffee in a perfect setting

Entering Herrington Harbor

Friday had the four of us in Annapolis for the powerboat show. Cath and I spent the entire day walking the show while our friends had to leave for NJ.

Saturday it was back to Annapolis for the Navy/Air Force football game. Whether the game would be played was up in the air until two days before game day. As ludicrous as it sounds the government shutdown had forced Air Force to scramble to find a way to fly the team to Annapolis. They made it and the largest crowd to fill Navy-Marine Corps Memorial Stadium sweated in 93 degree sunshine and watched Navy dominate. It was a lot of fun.

Dad was in the Marines and we live on a boat: Go Navy

Inspiring pre-game arrival

Our last night on board at Washburns provided a gorgeous sunset.

Sunset at Washburns Boatyard

Left the Capital Yacht Club early to make the long day trip to Breton Bay. Pulling into this anchorage I discovered a major discrepancy between two of my navigation programs. The photo below shows the tide and current for Breton Bay on August 20th. However the info is completely contradictory. This is something I had seen before and need to contact the offending software company in the near future.

Breton Bay tide and current. Huh?

One night at this now familiar anchorage and than a 20 mile run to Smith Creek. This would be our last stop on the Potomac before heading north to Solomons, MD. Smith Creek is a quiet and beautiful anchorage with easy kayaking and beautiful sunsets. I had read that every morning a long time resident on an adjoining creek plays the Star Spangled Banner over loudspeakers. Well sure enough at 8AM we could clearly hear the broadcast from the next creek.

Sunset on Smith creek

From Smith Creek it was on to Solomons, MD. This town, located off the lower Patuxent River, is a boaters paradise. Marinas abound and so do plenty of anchorages. We elected to stay several days at Solomons Harbor Marina, part of a Holiday Inn. This fall we are scheduling some maintenance work at Washburn’s Boatyard in Solomons but an immediate need arose and we contacted Eric, the owner of Washburn’s. He was kind enough to make a house call to review the battery situation on our genset. Problem was that the 18 month old AGM’s were dead and I had to jump off the main engine each time I wanted to start the genset. Eric confirmed the dead batteries so we rented a car and headed for Annapolis and the large “discount” battery store. They are big and heavy but of all the batteries on board these are the easiest to access. Why they died a premature death is something Washburn will need to figure out in October.

Solomons, MD

Across the Patuxent from Solomons is Naval Air Station Patuxent River. Situated on over 14,000 acres it is home to NAVAIR: “Naval Air Systems Command”. Navy flights and training are endless and the variety of aircraft overhead is impressive.

F/A 18 and V-22 Osprey cross paths

We crossed the Chesapeake and headed up the Eastern shore looking for a Creek we anchored on nearly thirty years ago. We found it off the Choptank River. La Trappe Creek and its smaller ancillary creeks has had some large homes built along its edges but the beauty and stillness remains. So do the crabs and we finally had some success.

Caught and cooked

And eaten

Not far from La Trappe Creek and just up the Tred Avon River lies the historic town of Oxford, MD. Our plans were loose and we ended up staying five days anchored in Goldsborough Creek, two miles east of town. It was Labor Day weekend but for most of the time we had the creek to ourselves.

Like La Trappe Creek we had not been to Oxford in nearly 30 years. Located right on the edge of town is the Robert Morris Inn. Built in about 1710 the Inn was once the home of Robert Morris, the father of the financier of the American Revolution. It is currently an Inn and restaurant and we picked a perfect Friday evening to eat outdoors. Being Friday night it was also race night at the Oxford Yacht Club. We were able to dinghy right up to the start of the race and then watch the finish from our table. Not bad.

Starting line

Robert Morris Inn

Andrew and Nicole had asked if they could join us for a night and so they drove down from DC Saturday and we picked them up at the Oxford dinghy dock. Another perfect weather day.

Touring the Tred Avon

Goldsborough Creek

We learned awhile back that Nicole likes to eat. Here she brought a sandwich for Cath.

Our type of deli

Big Smile is now docked at Herrington Harbor South on the western shore of Maryland. Andrew picked us up early and dropped us at Reagan National. From there it was on to Boston and Boston to Rutland via our now favorite airline, Cape Air. I am sitting in the lobby of the Silver Bay Inn on Lake George. I’ll post some LG photos in a few days.

The fourteen day trip from Morehead City to DC was an interesting assortment of long canals and quiet, sometimes desolate rivers. That is of course until you exit the Dismal Swamp Canal and almost immediately come upon the largest Naval Base in the world ie “Naval Station Norfolk”.

Prior to reaching Portsmouth and Norfolk we were entertained and challenged by the narrow and sometimes shallow canals that help the mariner avoid the offshore work around Cape Hatteras and the Outer Banks. The first canal just north of Morehead City was Adams Creek. From here you exit into the Neuse River. The next two nights we spent on the hook, first at Bonner Bay and then on the deserted Alligator River. The Alligator River/Pungo River Canal was a relaxing and easy transit. We did not pass a single boat in the entire canal.

Pungo River Canal

Anchoring on Alligator River

Our next stop was Elizabeth City, the last town before the Dismal Swamp. Unfortunately we pulled in on a Sunday. As with much of North Carolina Sunday is a day to roll up the sidewalk and go to church. The city does provide free docking along the waterfront. There is no electric or water but you can’t beat the location.

Elizabeth City

From Albemarle Sound there are two ways to reach Norfolk. The eastern route is the Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal. The western route is the Dismal Swamp Canal. The former is the route of choice for deeper draft vessels. The Dismal Swamp has a project depth of 6′. We draw 5-9 so its a close call. We chose the Dismal Swamp as we wanted to do it at least once. Well it was a day and a half of cringing as Big Smile bounced and bumped off of countless logs, branches and the bottom. The weather was perfect however and not a single boat passed us along the way. The canal is extremely narrow and is cut through a Cypress Swamp. It was opened in 1805 and is the oldest continually operating canal in the US. We did our first lock in Big Smile. Approximately half way through there is a visitor/welcome center. It welcomes boats and cars alike. The visitors center has a book exchange and a friendly and helpful staff. There is a nature trail through the swamp and a bike trail that follows the canal for miles. We were the only boat but plenty of cars pulled in.

South Mills Lock

Our first lock in Big Smile

We left the center in the early morning and bounced for another three hours before reaching the Deep Creek Lock. Again no boats and gorgeous weather. It was a fun trip but one we will not do again due to the depth of the canal. I don’t think any damage was done as our huge skeg took the brunt of the logs and deflected them to the side.

Leaving North Carolina

Dismal Swamp in Virginia

Approaching Deep Creek Lock

Not long after exiting Deep Creek Lock the surroundings take on a different look. The southern branch brings you into the heart of Norfolk and Portsmouth. Our destination was Ocean Marine, a marina in downtown Portsmouth. It was a far cry from the Dismal Swamp tie up. Our view included the Iwo Jima at the drydock.

Iwo Jima in drydock

Portsmouth turned out to be a wonderful three day stop. In addition to easy provisioning by bicycle Portsmouth has a beautiful historic district and very nice waterfront. It also has a dinner theater, “Commodore Theatre” which we took in. It is a restored 1945 Art Deco motion picture theater with dining. There are no seats, only tables and chairs. You arrive at 6PM and order your dinner by the phone at the table. It is served and you eat before the movie starts at 7. Desert, if ordered is delivered half way through the movie. A really fun experience and an awesome projection/sound system.

Leaving Portsmouth you pass only a couple of hundred yards from an incredible display of Navy armament. We were asked to keep to port in the channel by a Navy destroyer approaching its berth. We swung wide.

After two nights on the hook off Mobjack Bay we crossed the Chesapeake on a 6 hour trip to Cape Charles VA. Cape Charles is an old railroad town. For decades it was the Delmarva Peninsula rail port and connection point to Norfolk. The Chesapeake Bay Bridge tunnel’s opening in 1964 hastened the demise of Cape Charles. In the last decade development has taken place and the historic nature of the town is being realized. We spent two nights at the Kings Creek Marina and Resort. It was beautiful and the town was charming. We were even treated to a free concert in the public park called “Central Park” by the Navy’s jazz band. Lawn seating and a perfect night.

Waterman off Mobjack Bay

Kings Creek Marina

Crossing back to the western shore we spent three nights on the hook at three different locations as we made our way to DC. All spots were nice with Little Bay providing the nicest beach we had seen on the Chesapeake. On the 8th we left Fairview Beach and pulled into the Capital Yacht Club at 3PM. The Potomac is a long 95 mile run from the mouth to DC. Not something you do for an overnite. However we had planned 12 days at CYC and were looking forward to it.

Beach at Little Bay

Mount Vernon

Approaching the Capital Yacht Club